The designer is putting his own spin on the brand's house codes.
Since its inception in the 1960s, the Saint Laurent brand has challenged cultural norms through the creation of clothing and new silhouettes that went against gender and social constructs. While this has always been present in the brands womenswear collections, Anthony Vaccarello, current creative director ofSaint Laurent, has carried this concept into his menswear designs. This season the brand’s menswear collection, which showed in Berlin, was a thoughtful play on the juxtaposition between tailoring and draping, two recognizable "codes" of the house of Saint Laurent. Suits and blazers featured oversized strong, boxy shoulders, while still encompassing restraint in the overall shape and silhouette of the jackets (messy, baggy, or sloppy these pieces were NOT). In contrast, pencil tailored trousers were featured throughout the collection, an antithesis to the baggier trouser trend which has overtaken menswear runways the past few seasons.
However, the most interesting pieces from the show were undoubtedly the draped blouses which carried over from Vaccarello’s womenswear collection for Saint Laurent a few months ago. Although the blouses were done in neutral colors, a signature of traditional menswear, the silhouettes of the tops were more in line with what is typically seen at womenswear shows - these included halter, off-the shoulder, and one shoulder pieces. Now one might think these blouses may not trickle down to the general consumer, but we are already seeing an increase of this Saint Laurent aesthetic worn by male celebrities on red carpets since Vaccarello joined the house. And as we see more and more male stars embracing these untraditional silhouettes, like most things, they will, at some point, find their way to the sidewalks of fashionable cities around the world. I, myself, am a huge fan of Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent and this collection was no exception; take a look at some of my favorite looks below:
(Thumbnail Photo: Saint Laurent/Vogue Runway)